The last frontier of freshwater forest
Ferdous Zaman on how to explore the magnificent swamp forest of Sylhet, one of the few sustaining freshwater forest in the world.
Natural beauty and diversity is what defines Bangladesh and its landscape of 56,000 square miles. An illustrious example of such natural diversity is the north-eastern division of Sylhet that harbors a vast landscape of haors, forests, mountains, hills and rivers.
Geologists have ascertained that the low-lying plateau through vast areas of Sylhet were once part of a vast swamp which sheltered a wide diversity of wildlife. Over the years, such rich terrain had been changed – for natural and man-made reasons – and gradually erased. It is is one of the few sustaining freshwater forests in the world.
What left of such greatness will still amaze you. Filled with trees that rise out of the water spreading its branches overhead and filling the murky waters with an aura of green, and the serenity of the forest broken by the screeching of lengur monkeys will surely serve the palette of quest and sightseeing.
The way to Ratargul
Ratargul forest is located close to Goain River in Gowainghat upazila of Sylhet. To travel there Sylhet city is the point to start. From Ambarkhana bus stand of Sylhet city, microbus, car or CNG-driven auto-rickshaws to Changerkhal Bazar are frequent. The journey to Sarigang will not take more than an hour and 15 minutes – filled with endless tea gardens on both sides of the road.
The bazaar is at the bank of Sari River – locally known as Sarigang. A view of the great hills of the Indian state of Meghalaya is vibrant from the ghaat. And just some way off, wooden boats tagged with engines will be waiting to take you at the edge of Ratargul. It should not cost more than Tk 1,000 to Tk 1,500 to rent the round trip and the boat journey through the fields of traditional Bangladesh should not take more than 30 minutes. Smaller wooden boats will be waiting to take you around Ratargul which will be subjected to negotiation.
The attractions of Ratargul
- Hijol and koroch trees are one of several trees in the forest. Branches of the trees that sprout from the water and spread overhead are special beauty of the forest. While its shade keeps the forest relatively cool, it gives a green hue to the murky waters.
- There are huge number of monkey in the forest and it is one among several others wild animals. Also, butterflies of various species and colors of the rainbow and more can be easily seen.
- There is a tower inside the forest which offers an overhead view of the entire terrain and a peek into the adjacent Meghalaya. It is possible and completely secured to walk in the dry land of the forest.
- If you’re lucky, you can see a variety of snake the swamp gives shelter to. Often, they would swim by your boat hissing all the way into its hole. Little green snakes that are completely camouflaged with the leaves can also be spotted.
And after you’re done spending a splendid day in Ratargul, it would be time to head back to Sylhet city and plan the next sightseeing. A strong recommendation would be to bathe in the clear and pure waters of Lala Khal – situated no more than two hours away from Sylhet city.
The water, that flows down from Mizoram, is so clear that you would hardly find a difference in comparison to regular mineral bottled water. The place is situated in Jaintapur upazila and the Khal meets Sari River. Therefore, it is possible to have an elaborate boat journey upstream towards Lala Khal directly from Ratargul.
And, to rest your tired body after a purifying cold bath in Lala Khal, a solo government-run first class motel at the bank of the Khal would be more than happy to harbor you for the night.
The writer is an avid traveler and trainer at Base Camp, Bangladesh
