A Taste of History
Hidden in the meandering alleyways of Old Dhaka, Tamima Islam dives into an escapade of history while dining with AM Emran at his heritage home at Becharam Dewri.
For eons, food has been the epitome of hospitality in Bangladesh’s culture. Regardless of how wealthy a household is, serving a guest with food and hospitality is something we do with pride, and in this way, our heritage has been held down through generations.
Such is the aura of AM Emran’s home, an over 200-year old Zamindar house located at Becharam Dewri on Noor Baksh Lane, which has opened its doors for guests to indulge in the authentic taste of Mughlai cuisine within walls that are witnesses to history.
This ancient relic of a house stands on over six bighas (one bigha equal to 33 decimals) of land and is now divided into three parts; one part-owned and maintained by Emran, another owned by his aunt and the third part is now being turned into a multi-storey apartment building. In the middle is a spacious yard where once roamed deer and peacocks. A dirt-smeared, big old fountain stands in the center of the yard which once gave life to a luscious, green garden that is no more. One could instantly tell how lavishly the owners of this house once lived.
The living room being the main attraction of the heritage home, is nothing short of a museum itself. Ancient artifacts including an intricately designed perfume box, an antique foldable table, a 200-year-old gold plated Quran, Abul Khairat’s sword, and many more can be found here. Its walls are adorned with ancient family portraits and drawings done by Emran’s father, AM Jahangir. A self-portrait drawing of Abul Khairat, Emran’s great grandfather and the founder of this home, hangs between two doorways which open onto a porch that overlooks the yard.
Stained glass complements the entrance of all the rooms with each room having a unique design which reflects an array of colors that dance on the floors and walls of the room throughout the day. Antique chandeliers and furniture designed with a similar theme gives off a very classy vibe. A bed sits on one side where the painter SM Sultan stayed while visiting for a couple of months.
‘This house has always been well-known for its hospitality,’ says Emran. ‘We believe in the old saying of the famous Hafez Sherazi; ‘Guests don’t visit at their own will, guests are sent by God; therefore it is your fortune to be serving them.’’
The likes of Bangabandhu, Kazi Nazrul Islam, Maulana Bhashani, Sher-e-Bangla, HS Suhrawardy and more have enjoyed the hospitality of this home, and since its doors opened in 2018, so can everyone else.
Requiring a pre-booking and a minimum of four to five people in a day, Emran offers both lunch and dinner at a small price generated to cover the maintenance of the house. The basic platter, costing Tk 600, includes Zafrani Polao (Saffron rice), Chicken Potato Chop, Chicken Roast, Salad, Borhani and Zarda (sweet rice) to top it off. More dishes, namely Prawn Malai Curry, Anarash Ilish, Dholna, Kata Moshola, and Korma, can be availed by adding Tk 100 for each extra item.
The best part is dining on an ancient telescopic table where many aristocrats from centuries ago, up until modern-day ones, have dined.
This heritage-site-cum-diner is truly something to witness. This place takes one back in time and words can’t do justice to how hauntingly beautiful it is to find a relic like this in the bustling city of Dhaka. One can only hope that more such people as Emran find it important for future generations to be able to witness the beauty of heritage.
‘Heritage is more valuable than ornaments,’ shares Emran. ‘We can replace a lost bracelet but we can’t replace heritage once it has been lost.’
